Fronton de Oro Vineyards, Gran Canaria, Source: Ross Maloof
The Canary Islands are an archipelago of completely volcanic origin, emerging on the African plate just twenty million years ago. Since their genesis, these islands have experienced a relatively brief geological development compared to the continents, with the easternmost ones, Lanzarote and Fuerteventura, being the oldest, located just one hundred kilometers from the African coast. From there, the islands extend into the Atlantic, with La Palma and El Hierro, approximately 450 km from Africa, constituting the westernmost islands, with ages ranging between one and a half and four million years. In the center of the archipelago, Tenerife, is twelve million years old. Despite their geological youth, compared to continents which date up to five hundred million years, these islands possess a unique richness.
In regards to Canarian viticulture, we've learned from the previous blog that most of the vineyards on these islands are Pie Franco, since the roots of Vitis Vinifera were never affected by phylloxera. Although there are other places in the world with Pie Franco vineyards, few have grape varieties that are obsolete on the continent. The Canary Islands have preserved a substantial part of ancient viticulture, lost in Europe due to the plague, but which still persists in the vineyards of these islands.
Another aspect highlighted in previous blogs is the connection between terroir and geology, influenced by the minerals and stones that make up the soil. Depending on the mineral composition, the soil can have a specific range of fertility. Given the youth of these islands, their land is naturally fertile. When European settlers introduced grape growing in the 16th century, they quickly realized that growing practices on the mainland were not applicable to the islands. The vines grew with great vigor, which required the implementation of new pruning systems to control their development. Unique pruning and training methods were adopted to mitigate the exuberant growth of vineyards such as Cordón Trenzado, Emparrado, Hoyo, Rastras, etc., since uncontrolled growth negatively affects the quality of the fruit and can give it herbal flavors. This phenomenon is especially evident in varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, which, when the vegetal part of the vine grows too vigorously, can produce pyrazine - a chemical compound that gives herbal aromas or the famous green pepper. It is essential to note that herbal notes are not inherently negative; In fact, many people appreciate and associate them with these varieties. The key is for each individual to form their own appreciation and understanding of these oenological elements. This analysis seeks to provide a clearer view of how vigor affects the vineyard and the final product, highlighting the importance of understanding the type of soil present and how to mitigate plant vigor through proper pruning. The composition of the soil and the application of pruning and the appropriate management system, therefore, become crucial elements to balance the growth of the vine and the quality of the final product.
Braided Cordon Source: Suertes del Marqués and devinosconalicia.com
Braided Cord from vineyards over 200 years old
How is it possible that this area is so fertile for vineyards when it is located less than 100 kilometers from the hottest desert in the world (The Sahara)? How is it possible that its climate favors vine cultivation? There are several reasons that make this spectacular place unique. According to Miguel Feblez Ramírez, in the book About Canary Wines, it is due to: “the influence of atmospheric circulation and the Azores anticyclone, which has as a direct result the trade wind regime. With these, a set of location factors are combined, such as proximity to the African continent, belonging to the subtropical climate zone, up to the cold Canary Current and the importance of the relief of the islands.
Atmospheric circulation is caused by the unequal heating between the Equator and the poles. At the equator the air heats up and rises. As it rises, it cools and moves horizontally towards the poles, until it has cooled enough to begin to descend towards the surface of the Earth. A part of this air mass retreats again towards the equator. This movement of air, from 30° latitude towards the Equator, forms the trade winds. Therefore, the trade winds blow from the NE in the northern hemisphere and have a moderate intensity. In summer they are very regular in terms of direction and speed, while in winter they usually alternate occasionally with other different circulations, such as the arrival of tropical-continental air masses from the Sahara, the influence of disturbances from mid-latitudes and, more rarely, some of tropical origin.
The Trade Winds from the north Source: Ebook About Canary Wine
The Sea of Clouds Source: Ebook About Canary Wine
In the northern hemisphere, the circular turns of these currents is clockwise. In the North Atlantic we find the Cold Canary Current that descends from the Azores Islands to Cape Verde. As it descends, this air mass is in contact with the sea surface, helping to maintain the temperature and filling with water. By bathing the islands, it isolates them from the influence of the African continent, softening and homogenizing temperatures.
The thickness of the trade wind ranges between 1,200 meters in summer and 1,800 meters in winter. Above this layer we find another, warmer and drier layer; called thermal inversion of the trade wind. When colliding with the relief and not being able to ascend due to the thermal inversion, an effect of water condensation and clouds occur, causing the appearance of the so-called “Sea of Clouds” above 1,500 meters. The affected area benefits from water discharges through precipitation or horizontal rain (capture of water droplets from condensation by the vegetation). At higher altitudes, the air mass has lost its humidity and crosses the summit as dry air that descends more quickly, increasing the temperature.”
On the islands of Fuerteventura (at 801 meters) and Lanzarote (at 671 meters), the altitude is not enough to form the characteristic Sea of Clouds, which makes them warmer and drier lands. In these landscapes, captured moisture is filtered through volcanic ash, providing the vineyards with the necessary water obtained from the environment and the little rain they receive. On these islands, vines are planted in individual holes or chabocos, allowing the roots to reach the organic matter in the subsoil, located about 3-5 meters below the ash. With its black and red soils in Lanzarote, the result of a volcanic eruption that lasted six years in the 18th century, a surreal scene is created that resembles the moon more than earth.
Chabocos Source: Los Bermejos Winery
Hoyos with Malvasía planted Source: Bodega Los Bermejos
These islands have preserved the legacy of ancestral viticulture in a unique way. No other place in the world is home to so many obsolete varieties, without grafted vines, thanks to the fact that the islands have resisted phylloxera to date. The reasons for this resistance, whether due to altitudes, the age of the soil or the type of soil, are an enigma. What we do know is that more than 40 unique varieties are grown in the Canary Islands at altitudes that reach 1,700 meters. It is heroic viticulture that challenges even the most intrepid. From this young and somewhat wild land emerge wines with an extraordinary character: slightly saline, with floral nuances, occasionally with smoky touches, and ripe and elegant tannins. These wines are complex and enjoyable and speak of a truly unique place in the world.
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