Minerality on both sides of the ocean: when the soils speak in the wine

We often describe wines as mineral—flint, saline, volcanic, stony—but what does that really mean? As we mentioned in Blog XV , vines don't literally absorb minerals; rather, soils determine water retention, root depth, thermal balance, and microbial life. All of these influence grape ripening, acidity, and aromatic expression.

In some ways, the “stone taste” is a metaphor, but the landscapes beneath the vines are very real, and there's no doubt that the nutrients and nature of the soil contribute flavor, character and structure to the wine.

Although it's difficult to pinpoint exactly how much and how the soil and the wine glass are connected, it's fascinating to discover how the soils of the Americas often mirror those of Europe. According to scientists, when Pangaea existed, the continents shared geological formations that were later separated by the oceans. Today, thousands of miles don't prevent certain winemaking regions from sharing geological kinships and, with them, wines that resonate in unexpected ways. Today, we're going to explore them.

 

Volcanic fire: Canary Islands, Mexico and the Andes

Volcanoes are formed mainly in three ways:

• When one tectonic plate pushes under another at a convergent boundary, melting rock and generating magma that rises to the surface,
  
  

• at divergent boundaries, where plates separate and allow magma to emerge,
  
  

• or in so-called hot spots, where columns of magma pass through a stable plate, without depending on tectonic boundaries.
  
  

These eruptions produce materials such as tuffs and basalts, rich in nutrients. Many argue that volcanic soils give wines a smoky minerality, vibrant freshness, and elegant tannins thanks to their excellent drainage and specific mineral composition.

Examples between America and Europe:

• Canary Islands (Tenerife, Lanzarote, Gran Canaria): black, sandy or rocky soils that produce wines with smoky, saline notes and electric acidity.
  
  

• Central Mexico (Puebla, Michoacán, Colima, State of Mexico): Volcanic soils that provide earthy depth and lively tension to Tempranillo, Syrah, and sparkling wine bases.
  
  

• Andes (Mendoza, Argentina; Central Chile): high-altitude volcanic ash and debris that produce Malbec, Cabernet and Carmenère with marked minerality and structural freshness.
  
  

In the glass: Volcanic whites and reds from the Canary Islands, Mexico, and the Andes share that almost tactile mineral energy—ideal for grilled meats, chilies, and earthy mushrooms.

 

Echoes of limestone: Burgundy, New Mexico and Uco Valley

Limestone soils are formed by the decomposition of primarily of calcium carbonate. This rock was formed millions of years ago from shells and remains of marine organisms, or by direct precipitation of minerals from water. Over time, erosion processes transformed it into alkaline soils, rich in minerals, which are often found on ancient seabeds uplifted by geological movements.

These soils produce wines with bright acidity, marked minerality, and a linear and precise profile. They are renowned in regions such as Burgundy, Champagne, and the Loire, where varieties like Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Sauvignon Blanc display exceptional freshness and finesse.

Examples in both hemispheres:

• Burgundy (Chablis, Côte d'Or): Jurassic limestones and marls that lend tension and longevity to some of the world's most celebrated whites.
  
  

• Mimbres Valley, New Mexico: Chalky plots yield surprisingly crisp Chardonnay in a warm, dry climate with a harsh winter.
  
  

• Uco Valley, Mendoza: Limestone and clay-limestone soils that produce Malbec, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir with precision and tension.
  
  

In the glass: a Chablis, a Chardonnay from the mountains of New Mexico, and a Malbec from the Uco Valley share a vibrant, chalky minerality, perfect for seafood or delicately roasted vegetables.

Slate and schist: Germany, Ribeira Sacra, Priorat, and Patagonia

Slate and schist are derived from the transformation of shale under heat and pressure during mountain building. Slate forms at lower temperatures and pressures, while schist requires more intense conditions, which reorganize the minerals and accentuate their structure.

These soils often produce taut, structured wines with distinctive mineral notes: from Rieslings from the Mosel to Mencias from Ribeira Sacra, Pinot Noir in Oregon, Syrah in the Northern Rhône, or Garnacha from Priorat. Slate retains warmth and contributes stony aromas, while the cooler schist preserves acidity and vibrant energy.

Notable examples:

• Moselle and Ribeira Sacra (Germany and Spain): slate and schist slopes that intensify the tension and mineral aromas in Riesling and Mencía.
  
  

• Priorat, Spain: Black schist and slate soils nicknamed Licorella produce wines with lively acidity and minerality.
  
  

• Patagonia (Río Negro, Argentina): glacial slate and schist soils that produce Pinot Noir and Merlot with elegant, mineral profiles.
  
  

In the glass: a Riesling from the Moselle, a Garnacha from Priorat, and a Patagonian Pinot Noir share that “stony vibration” that elevates the flavors and reinforces the freshness.

Clay, iron and sand: Rioja, Guanajuato, Bordeaux and Chile

Clay soils with a limestone base. Source: www.cephas.com

Clay, sand, and iron-rich soils are formed by the decomposition of rocks and minerals through physical and chemical processes. Clay arises from chemical reactions that alter the rock, sand from physical fragmentation, and iron from oxidation processes that color and enrich the soil layers.

Comparative examples:

• Rioja Alavesa: clayey-calcareous soils that produce elegant Tempranillos with silky tannins.
  
  

• Dolores Hidalgo, Guanajuato: soils with clay and iron that give rise to structured reds (Cabernet, Nebbiolo) with firm but velvety tannins.
  
  

• Bordeaux (Médoc, Graves, Left Bank): sands on gravel terraces that produce aromatic, elegant and fluid Cabernet Sauvignons.
  
  

• Maule and Colchagua Valleys, Chile: coastal sands that contribute finesse and aromatic clarity to Cabernet and Carmenère, while clays reinforce the structure.
  
  

In the glass: clay provides depth and body, sand elegance and lightness. In Bordeaux, Guanajuato, or Chile, the diversity of soils within a single region generates a range of styles: from robust and earthy wines to delicate and refined profiles.

Sands across the Americas: Rueda, Parras Valley, California and Chile

Sandy vineyards of Colares, Portugal. Source: winefolly.com

 

Sandy soils, formed by the fragmentation of granite or sandstone, have large particles that retain little water and nutrients. Their texture makes it difficult for phylloxera to survive, which explains why some of the oldest vines on the planet still thrive in them. These soils can also form in glacial or alluvial deposits, rich in coarse sand.

Examples on both continents:

• Rueda (Spain): sandy soils that saved Verdejo from phylloxera, with aromatic wines with citrus and fennel notes.
  
  

• Parras Valley, Coahuila (Casa Madero): sands that allow for fresh Cabernet and Syrah in a desert climate.
  
  

• California (Napa, Sonoma): sandy plots that produce expressive whites (Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay) and elegant reds.
  
  

• Chile (Casablanca, Maipo, Colchagua): alluvial terraced sands that produce Cabernet and Carmenère of great freshness and finesse.
  
  

In the glass: Sand wines are fragrant, light, and fresh—perfect with herbs, roasted vegetables, and mild spices. In Bordeaux and America, sandy soils display the same aromatic subtlety.

 

Why does minerality matter to winegrowers?

The winemaker doesn't just grow grapes: he seeks to capture the essence of the land. Soil influences water availability, temperature, root depth, and microbial life, which define grape ripening and its sensory profile.

Expressing the soil in a wine conveys a sense of place, history, and climate that cannot be replicated elsewhere. Achieving this requires sensitivity to what is happening in the vineyard and its surroundings. Showing the soil in the glass is a gesture of respect and craftsmanship.

In Mexico, Chile, Argentina, Europe, and anywhere in the world, winegrowers transform the invisible properties of a vineyard into a liquid story: wines that speak of soil, climate, and an artist's touch.