Two hours north of Madrid lies the Ribera del Duero Denomination of Origin - one of Spain's most iconic. Located in the Iberian Central Plateau, at about 750-850 meters above sea level, the land, that displays hues of ochre and red due to its high clay content, contrasts with the seemingly endless blue sky. The sun here is so strong, scorching the earth so much that not even Icarus would have dared to approach. I exaggerate, it's true, but Ribera del Duero is a place with a severe climate. Often, in summer, temperatures exceed 38 degrees centigrade. In winter, temperatures commonly drop to zero degrees and below, and spring always brings the threat of frosts that can drastically reduce yields. The diurnal shifts (temperature fluctuations between day and night) can vary by more than 20 degrees centigrade in summer, extending the ripening time so late into the year that Ribera is one of the places with the latest harvests in Europe - sometimes until the end of November. While cool nights are essential for the development of grape acidity, and late harvests ensure the grapes ripen well in terms of sugar and essential flavors, making wines in Ribera requires courage. With all these challenges, the wines from this area are known as some of the best in Spain - they are complex, concentrated, long-lived, and can exhibit finesse and delicacy. In the case of Ribera del Duero, the grape has adapted to such extreme conditions that, once again, we see the enormous capacity of this plant to adapt to its environment in incredible ways.
Ribera del Duero was granted DO status in 1982. Although the Phoenicians brought vineyards to the area over 2500 years ago, it was in 1864 when Don Eloy Lecanda planted the first vineyards of Vega Sicilia with the vision that this area had everything necessary to produce very high-quality wines. And he was right. Obviously, he couldn't have guessed back then that Vega Sicilia would become Spain's most famous winery, but he also couldn't have known that it would be followed by some other extraordinary ones like Pingus, Pesquera, Aalto, among others - all located on the main road of Ribera, N122, in what is called "The Golden Mile." Due to the exceptional quality of these wines, there was a lot of investment in the area in the 1980s, making Ribera one of the most important DOs in Spain. Today there are 300 wineries. To put it into context, in 1982 when the DO was established, there were 20.
In this 115-kilometer long valley, there are only 23,000 hectares of vineyards planted compared to the 65,000 planted in Rioja. Additionally, Ribera has nearly 11% of vineyards with over 80 years of age, making yields much lower than in Rioja. Most of the vineyards are planted with Tinto Fino or Tinto de País (synonyms of Tempranillo), with scarce amounts of Garnacha used for rosés and Albillo for the whites. Tempranillo remains the most important variety in Spain, and here it is no different. However, after several centuries in this extreme zone, the vines have adapted, and it is said to be genetically Tempranillo, but in Ribera the fruit size is much smaller and the skin thicker to protect the grapes from the fierce climate.
Now let's talk about the soil… Of course, we're going to talk about the soils. I can't leave you curious! In Ribera, there are two predominant soil types - near the river it's sandy with marl and river stones, and on the slopes where the best vineyards are located, is a mixture of calcareous soils with clay. From Blog I, we already know that calcareous soils have the desired mixture to make exceptional wines - they have good drainage but retain water when there is drought, their white color reflects light, promoting photosynthesis and increasing the absorption of soil nutrients. Such soils typically produce wines that are aromatic and elegant. Clay soil retains more water and freshness, and its wines often have more body and tannin. With this mix of soils, there is the potential to make extraordinary wines, and it's not just potential; we know that it produces them.
Don Eloy Lecanda left a great legacy to the people of Spain in the 19th century. Before that, Ribera was mostly an area making table wine. Now it is internationally known for its magnificent, complex wines that can subtly express the characteristics of an extreme place where all life forms need strength to survive. He saw something special in those slopes with calcareous soils and the valley with the Duero River refreshing its thirsty lands. It cannot be denied that the vines of this area share the brave spirit of the people who work the land and produce wine there, and it cannot be denied that great wines typically emerge from places where they encounter challenges.
And speaking of challenges, I have imposed on myself the challenge of bringing these wines to share with you and extending the metaphorical branches of all those vines, grapes, and producers so that they can now reach Mexico. But beyond the vines and grapes, I believe that my desire is to spread this philosophy, this way of being aware of the production processes, the land, water, and resources in general, and of respecting traditions. So let's get to know the soil, investigate the grape varieties, vines, grapes, and processes that together result in a wonderful liquid called wine.
Cheers!
And don't forget to subscribe to my newsletter so that this dream of spreading and sharing becomes a reality. I promise to continue exploring, drinking, and writing.
