Priorato: Donde el Vino Sube al Cielo

As its name suggests, the Priorat Qualified Designation of Origin has deeply spiritual roots. Unlike other European wine-growing areas founded by Cistercian monks, it was the Carthusians—an even more austere and contemplative order—who left an indelible mark here. According to legend, in 1163 a shepherd had a mystical vision: a ladder rising from earth to heaven, with angels ascending and descending. Inspired by this symbol of divine connection, King Alfonso I of Aragon soon after founded a Carthusian monastery on the same site. He called it La Cartoixa de Scala Dei—the “Staircase of God.”

Although today the monastery is merely a majestic ruin, the small village of Scala Dei still exists, and its name lives on in one of Priorat's most iconic wineries. The spirituality, isolation, and pursuit of perfection that defined the Carthusian monks continue to resonate in the character of the wines produced here: intense, profound, and full of soul.

Spain has more than seventy appellations of origin, but only two have achieved the distinction of Qualified Designation of Origin (DOCa or DOQ in Catalan): Rioja and Priorat. This recognition is reserved for regions with an exceptional combination of history, soil diversity, ancient vineyards, and rigorous quality control.

Scala Dei Winery
Source: https://www.doqpriorat.org

The Romans already cultivated vines in what is now the province of Tarragona, but what most interested them back then was the mineral wealth of the subsoil—lead, silver, iron. Even so, the region's wines were appreciated throughout the empire. Over time, the Carthusians perfected the art of winemaking in the Carthusian monastery, until, in the 19th century, two parallel tragedies changed the destiny of Priorat: first, the confiscation of church lands by Mendizábal, which expropriated the church, and then, phylloxera, which almost completely devastated the vineyards.

For much of the 20th century, Priorat was a forgotten region, labored under by aging small farmers. But in the 1990s, a group of visionary winemakers saw what others didn't: a unique landscape of steep terraces, centuries-old vines, and black slate soils—called llicorella—that offered an opportunity to make wines as wild as they were sophisticated.

Names like René Barbier (Clos Mogador), Álvaro Palacios (L'Ermita, Finca Dofí), Mas Martinet, Clos de l'Obac, and Clos Erasmus initiated a renaissance. They embraced manual practices on land that doesn't allow for mechanization, opted for low-yield Garnacha and Cariñena varieties, and focused on quality over volume. The wine world soon took note. Since then, L'Ermita de Palacios has become one of Spain's most expensive and coveted wines.

The climate is harsh, the slopes extreme, the ground slippery. But those who work here do so with the same devotion as the ancient monks. It's no exaggeration to say that every bottle of Priorat embodies a struggle against nature, a faith in the terroir, and an almost monastic patience.

Source: www.barcelife.com/los-vinedos-de-la-do-priorat-enoturismo-y-paisajes-de-ensueno/

Today, Priorat is not only synonymous with great wines, but also with a classification system that honors the soil, the location, and the age of the vine. Similar to Burgundy, but with its own unique identity, Priorat recognizes five levels of provenance, from regional wine to Gran Vinya Classificada, reserved for vineyards over 35 years old and with an outstanding reputation.

  • DOQ Priorat (Regional Wine):
    This is the most basic level, representing the overall quality of the region.

  • DOQ Priorat Vi de Vila (Municipality Wine):
    Highlights wines from specific municipalities within Priorat.

  • DOQ Priorat Vi de Paratge (Paraje Wine):
    It recognizes the uniqueness of vineyards with unique characteristics, such as microclimates or specific soil types, such as Lieux-Dits in Burgundy. Ninety percent of the vines must be at least 15 years old.

  • DOQ Priorat Vinya Classifica (Classified Vineyard):
    This level recognizes the quality of individual vineyards with a high reputation. Like Burgundy's Premier Cru, 80% of the vineyards must be at least 20 years old.

  • DOQ Priorat Gran Vinya Classificado (Great Classified Vineyard):
    At the top of the quality pyramid, these wines come from vineyards with a history of excellence and are similar to the "Grand Cru" of Burgundy; a minimum of 80% of the vineyards must be 35 years old.

The story of Priorat is not simply a story of wine, but a story of resilience, redemption, and legacy. The Carthusian monks abandoned Scala Dei in 1835, but they left behind something more lasting than stones: a model of life based on silence, contemplation, and excellence. In every glass of Priorat wine, you can still hear that ancient echo whispering from the stone terraces: that the sacred isn't always in the sky, sometimes it's found underground—in the roots of a vine.

 

Entrance photo: Source: https://www.doqpriorat.org

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