My job as an importer and distributor of Spanish wines is not just about selecting great wine. I look for wines with character, those that tell the story of their origin with pride. I'm not interested in “international style” wines, those that could be from anywhere because they lack identity. Wine is the only drink in the world capable of expressing its home and its land so profoundly. So I select wines that reflect their terroir and, above all, that elevate the food instead of overpowering it with too much alcohol or oak. I want every bottle I offer you to be pure, elegant, and to bring a smile to your face when you share it with your loved ones or enjoy it at your favorite restaurant. Recently, I have spoken to several sommeliers about how wonderful it is to pair Mexican food with some Spanish wines because we have so many types of terroirs in common. Today I want to explore that further.
Mexican cuisine, with its impressive variety of flavors, lends itself beautifully to exploring pairings based on the origin of the ingredients. From tropical fruits like sapodilla and soursop, achiote and coastal citrus, to the smokiness of dried chiles, the richness of moles, black salt, and meats slowly cooked underground, Mexico invites us to stimulate all of the senses with the myriad of flavors and colors. The diversity of the Mexican soil is unmatched and, as with wine, deeply influences the flavor of the food.
How does soil affect flavors?
The soil in which plants grow is not just a physical support, but a source of minerals and nutrients that directly affect their flavor. Some key factors include:
• Essential nutrients: Elements such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium influence the intensity of flavors.
• Minerals: Selenium, zinc and magnesium can provide specific nuances.
• Soil pH: Affects nutrient uptake and therefore the plant's taste profile.
• Organic matter: A soil rich in organic matter can result in more intense and complex flavors.
Just as terroir defines the character of a wine, it also influences the ingredients of a cuisine. This leads us to a fascinating approach to pairing: matching wines and dishes based on the similarity of their soils.
Pairing by terroir: How the soil defines the wine and its affinity with Mexican gastronomy
There are no absolute rules for pairing wine and food, but there are basic principles that can help us find more harmonious combinations. A popular phrase in English sums up this concept well: “That which grows together, goes together.” It gives us a clue: if a region shares soil characteristics, its products are likely to harmonize. Sounds simple, right? Fish with light wines, red meat with more robust wines… but in reality, pairing can be much more adventurous and dynamic.
A grilled fish can go wonderfully with a light red wine from volcanic soils, while a Charolais steak in cream sauce could be perfect with a structured white wine from Burgundy such as a Meursault or a Puligny-Montrachet. The interesting thing about pairing is that it allows us to play with contrasts and affinities, but to do it successfully, it is important to know some fundamental rules.
Essential principles of pairing
1. Balance of intensities – Wine and food should have similar intensities so that neither overwhelms the other.
2. Harmony between acidity and freshness – Wines with good acidity balance fatty foods or those with creamy sauces (e.g. a young Rioja Blanco with tamales de rajas con crema).
3. Managing spiciness – Alcohol enhances spiciness, so it is best to choose fresh and fruity wines with less alcohol content (e.g. a Volcanic Malvasia with aguachile).
4. Tannins and proteins – Red wines with firm tannins soften on the palate when paired with proteins (e.g. Tempranillo from Rioja Alavesa with barbacoa de borrego).
5. Pairing by contrast or affinity – You can balance acidity with fat or enhance similar notes (e.g. a Negramoll with mushrooms).
6. Soil as a guide to pairing – The terroir influences the character of the wine and can enhance certain ingredients in the food.
Vineyards overlooking the Atlantic
Pairing according to the soil: A key to choosing wines
For those who are not yet familiar with the profiles of each grape, soil type can be a great tool to identify ideal pairings. Many wine labels already mention the soil where their vineyards grow: Granite, Slate, Clay, Volcanic, among others. Each soil type brings specific characteristics to the wine, which gives us clues as to which foods can best enhance its flavors.
Examples of soils and their pairings
1. Clay soils
Examples: Rioja, Rhone, Tuscany, Pomerol.
Wines: Structured reds with round tannins and fruity richness.
Ideal pairings:
• Barbecue, cochinita pibil (the structure of the wine balances the fat).
• Mushrooms, huitlacoche, truffle (highlight the complexity of the wine).
• Dishes with tomatoes, such as red moles and ragouts (the acidity harmonizes with the wine).
Example: A Rioja Reserva with mole poblano.
2. Sandy soils
Examples: Priorat, Toro, Barolo, Barbaresco, parts of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Wines: Elegant, with fine tannins and good freshness.
Ideal pairings:
• Game meats and lean proteins.
• Chiles en nogada (Garnacha or Nebbiolo complement the fruit and spices).
• Huitlacoche quesadillas (the earthy flavors stand out).
3. Calcareous soils
Examples: Rioja Alavesa, Burgundy, Champagne, Chablis.
Wines: High acidity, minerality and longevity.
Ideal pairings:
• Fresh seafood (oysters, ceviche, aguachile).
• Creamy sauces (white mole, blanette de veau).
• Cured meats and aged cheeses (serrano ham, cured Manchego).
4. Gravel soils
Examples: Bordeaux (Médoc, Margaux, Graves), parts of Napa.
Wines: Powerful and elegant (Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot).
Ideal pairings:
• Grilled meats (ribeye, northern roast).
• Stuffed chiles and aged cheeses (they highlight the depth of the wine).
• Dark sauces like black mole.
5. Volcanic soils
Examples: Canary Islands, Etna, Santorini, Michoacan.
Wines: High acidity, smoky notes and minerality.
Ideal pairings:
• Smoky flavors (dried chilies, moles).
• Tlayudas with beef jerky, grilled octopus.
• Roasted vegetables (corn, peppers).
Example: Listán Blanco from the Canary Islands with grilled fish.
Canarian wines and their relationship with Mexican flavours
Canarian wines, with their vibrant acidity and volcanic minerality, have enormous potential with Mexican cuisine. Their saline and smoky notes make them ideal for dishes with dried chiles, spices, and wood-fired cooking. In addition, the vineyards in the Canary Islands grow on soils similar to those in many Mexican regions such as Guanajuato, Michoacán, Puebla, and Morelos, which creates a natural affinity between these wines and Mexican food.
Some notable combinations:
Birria tacos – Listán Negro (Golden Fronton).
- Ceviche – Listán Blanco (Viñátigo).
•Tacos al pastor – Rosé from Listán Negro (Los Bermejos).
Tacos al Pastor
Rioja Alavesa and Mexican Soil Food - A surprisingly wonderful pairing.
Rioja Alavesa, where the Sierra de Toloño winery is located, has marl-calcareous soils. The wines from this part are fresher and fruitier wines. A white Rioja is usually fresh, fruity and with good acidity, and the reds from the area have a vibrant acidity with a fresh character that contrasts very well with smoky and spicy ingredients in Mexican cuisine. A very good pairing with various Mexican dishes, especially those that are not excessively spicy and that have fresh ingredients.
• Barbecue tacos – High Altitude Grenache (Sierra de Toloño, La Dula).
• Quesadillas with pumpkin blossoms and epazote – Fresh Rioja Blanco (Sierra de Toloño Viura).
El Bierzo and the Mencía grape: Another great ally of Mexican pairing
Old Vineyards of Bierzo
El Bierzo, in northwestern Spain, is another region that produces wines perfect for Mexican cuisine. Its slate, clay and quartz soils lend an intense minerality, with notes of ground stone, graphite and red fruits. The Mencía grape, with its freshness and vibrant acidity, is ideal for spicy and smoky dishes.
Ideal pairings with Mencía from Bierzo:
• Grilled and smoked meats (marinated ribs, grilled beef tacos).
• Tacos and snacks with roasted sauces (al pastor, chorizo with morita chile).
• Light moles and pipianes (red pipian with pork, mole enchiladas).
The terroir as a compass for pairing
As we have seen, pairing by soil type is a fascinating way to discover unexpected combinations. The minerality of a wine can complement smoky, spicy and citrus notes in a dish, generating harmonies that go beyond the traditional.
So next time you choose a wine, look beyond the grape and think about its origin. Perhaps a red from volcanic soils is just what you need for your next mole. Or a white from calcareous soils for a fresh ceviche. Exploring pairings by terroir allows us to better understand the relationship between wine and food, connecting us with the history and soil of each bottle. Bon appetit and health!
